What is a good war build for an orc/warhero at 1000 acres with all offense in elites?
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What is a good war build for an orc/warhero at 1000 acres with all offense in elites?
Training grounds, barracks, and hospitals should form your core.
If your TPA is horrible, add watchtowers. If your TPA's badass, which it might just be, add thieves' dens, so you can do something else than just attack.
Farms as needed.
Everything else is secondary.
For the current age, what would be your favorite race/personality and why?
Dwarf/mystic, dwarf/warrior, elf/warrior, elf/mystic, human/rogue, human/warrior.
Sage works for all three.
They're my favorites because they're the most powerful when fielded in large numbers, and human works nicely for soloplay, too, if that's your kind of thing.
can you make a A undead/warrrior strategy guide? (foor a n00b)
undead is a pure attacker choice. The build strat shouldnt differ much from other attackers, use lots of rax/TGs you would be fine. I would also incorporate some homes, seeing that u should be making a lot of exchanges, and thus likely to be underpop a lot.
The most important aspect of playing undead, is knowing how to convert elites. Primarily, note that oversending diminishes conversion rate, so you ought to find targets you can barely break at your NW exactly. The NW range to look for would be 90%-110% of your own. If you are running super high offense (which you should), you should even be finding gnome turtlers to break. Dun let other noobs tell you its not possible to achieve 100 opa with specs. Undead generally have low NWPA, so if you are at same NW with a gnome with 180+ NWPA, you prolly have more land. Which means, if say you are at 150 NWPA, you should be able to break that gnome with just 80 opa.
Another important aspect of undead is off/def ratio. Suicidal is good. It incentivises people to retal you, so you make lots of exchanges in land. That keeps you from outgrowing your KD, and plays on your primary advantage, your immortal offense. But in war, being the lone suicider gets you killed fast before your KD can exploit the opportunity. Hence, undead plays best in a full-undead KD, where most if not all run low def and super high off just like you.
My KD ran undead with 25-30 dpa raw beginning of age, using rest army to offense. We won all our first 4 wars, so i find the strat pretty slick. Of cos, knowing when/how to chain is important to utilising all that offense.
What's a good in protection strat for a dwarf a/m. probably merchant or mystic. I don't think we'll be warring right oop.
Can you create a Dwarf Super Thief Guide and show the numbers.
Base it on a 1000acre provence.
It maybe stupid, but since VT2 is the ultimate, he should be able to nut one out. lol
Okay.
This one's got vines' seal of approval on it.
50% thieves' dens.
50% homes.
99% draft, all trained as thieves.
in which situation or/and type of encounters (kds with a certain type of set up including pers/race) would you ever feel the need to use any of the other 3 types of dragons
(saphirre,gold,emerald) what is the future of dragoning if anything needs to be changed?
what do you think of Orcs this age since its not on your fav list. what would you be your counter if u were to see them or there was a lot of em in the world. (strat,race/pers,drag)
Sapphire if the people you're warring have little army, but lots of TPA and WPA. Combine with watchtowers, and other defensive measures, to take away their strengths.
Emerald is fun if you want to attrition people. Works lovely against orcs and gnomes.
Gold is so situational, it's rarely useful.
Rob peasants from orcs, and they die.
let them hit as much as they'd like, getting themselves fat in the process, then harvest them when they're ripe.
Ambush them, and they die.
Attrition them to death.
Orc only works short-term, and are too one-dimensional to form supportive elements.
You can base your plans around them, but not add them to an already established plan.
I'm surprised you haven't resigned from this thread VT2, given that Mourhelm is still a mod, but please don't let this post change that. :-)
What do you think of Monarchs playing as banks, and what race/pers would you go? Currently I'm thinking Hu/Merchant, but I believe most banks go gnome or dwarf Shepard. I could be wrong on that though. Please especially give me your thoughts, as me going bank next age would mean the kingdom losing about 1/4th of it's attacks in a war. (I'm in a kingdom marginally above ghetto in status. I had 95 attacks last war, second place had 40 or so)
Edit: Also, can you give me a rough build strat? I was thinking something along these lines:
30% homes
30% banks
10% guilds
7% towers
3% dungeons
3-5% farms (Once I get sci pumped)
8% stables
7-9% libraries
That's rough, but I mostly want your opinion on the homes. I used to be very bullish on homes, but then I realized that they increase nw so much that they are useless in terms of offense. But since their primary function is income, that is somewhat irrelevant.
Ghettos can't run 'banks.'
They can, it's just a question of whether or not it's a good strategy.
Besides, I'm not in a ghetto. We used to be top 50, but we lost some players thanks to the short age (Great job OMAC) and real life issues. Some are coming back next age, and they all should come back at the end of August. Next age I want to go bank as a dry run on the strat. What are your thoughts?
That your kingdom will be unable to run a 'bank' next age, and trying to run one will only cause you problems.
NEXT!
Any good races for sage?
What build is good for a A/M or A/T sage?
normally it's best to pick race, then personality =)Quote:
Originally Posted by gintama23
sage goes well with human/elf/gnome/dwarf
Who says ghetto's can't have banks? :p
I'm not sure why you thought stables or dungeons would be useful for a bank though, and not sure why you didn't think of elf. Trying to run a bank is ill-advised though in my opinion unless you have the diplomatic ability or killers and a strong kingdom to back it up with.
Clampy, that's why his kingdom can't run a bank.
He lacks the experience and knowledge needed to make one work, and his definition of 'bank' isn't even the same as what he's seen bigger and better kingdoms run.
Sage combos with everything nicely.
what do you think of marketing the game? how would you do that?
is phone apps, facebook apps. and kind of myspace customise our kd page a good way to promote our game? ( puting an intro song, pictures, different stats etc..)
I wouldn't market this game until I manage to stamp out cheating, and somehow erase the game's reputation that it rewards cheating, and punishes people who play by the rules.
if you were to remake or add a pers, what would it be?
Warhero - make it useful.
Mystic - make it not a requirement for M, so we get some diversity.
In general, just make things more diverse.
Remove cleric, because it sucks as hard as artisan and freak before it.
we should also make it so rogue is not a requirement for a decent thief, and warrior isnt a requirement for an active attacker?Quote:
Originally Posted by VT2
freak was good with the 5 elites for 4 pop thingy... (in actual fact it was 5 elites gives +1 pop)
8 for 7 was kinda meh...
I played a couple ages a few years ago, but I'm essentially new to the game. Previously I played T/Ms, which I've read are garbage now.
In one of the posts in this thread, it is said that Human/Rogue (I would assume A/T) is a fairly decent combination, especially if you're going solo. I'll probably have to, because I have no idea what kind of KD I'm going to be placed into.
What sort of strategy would you recommend for a Human/Rogue, particularly at the beginning of a new age?
We'll take you in our kingdom. :-) We'll always take active players, regardless of skill.
That will largely depend on the changes next age, but if you wanna go a/t I'd probably go gnome/rogue.
Also, I'm pretty sure T/M's always sucked. :-P
Yes, well I never said I was any GOOD when I used to play. ;P
And thanks for the offer, but I don't believe there's any way to choose what KD you go into. Unless that's changed?
I'd considered Halfling, since that's about the only race I've ever played, but I wasn't sure how they'd do as an attacker. Like I said, I've only ever been T/M, so I have no knowledge of requirements for attacking.
I'll go browse the Halfer A/T thread in the forum, unless there's some flaw in that kind of setup?
Your A is the weakest in the game, and your T isn't realistically more effective than that of human.
Sure, you can train more thieves during war, but why are you training thieves during war to begin with, when you have acres that need to be built, dragons that require funding, armies that demand constant retraining - especially since you have no hospitals to cut down your losses?
Gnome is subpar, at best.
This isn't so much the fault of the race itself, but of the 'big three' - human, elf, and dwarf.
If you want A/T, you go human.
Ok, so Human and Halfling are on par for thieving. Humans have more military power, both offensively and defensively.
Do Humans need to run more Guilds/Towers to make up for their -25%, or as an A/T is that not worth the land?
Human has a whole lot more going for it.
You get: better science, more money, better army, and more military power for the same amount of cash.
A human will, on average, have better M than a gnome, due to the bonus to science, the extra money for investing in science, and the high modifer for magic-science.
In the end, both are about equally bad for defending against M, since both of them attract fireballs from every single elf and chocolate elf you come across.
Hey VT2
Can you help me out with a Dwarf/mystic strat for start of new age up to 1000 acres?
Not so fantastic player but not total noob.
Sure.
Stay away from the following: stables, libraries, thieves' dens, mills, and schools.
Everything else is a-okay.
99% draft - start aiding out soldiers once you have 62-70% trained.
to be more specific, I am going a/M. what do you think is a good raw WPA to aim at so I can be useful for my KD in war?
Never played dwarf before and not used to being mage, how many % guilds do you guys think I should have at start to get a good WPA fast? and at which point should I rebuild the guilds?
at a later stage I was thinking about a set up like this,
20 % homes
20 % guilds
5-10 % farms (Dwarf BE + FL enough?)
20 % banks
10 % training grounds
10 % towers
5-10 % forts
maybe sacrifice 5 % guilds for WT in war, or is that a bad move?
advice/comments appreciated. :)
Where are your barracks, your hospitals, your watchtowers, and your guard stations?
You should have as many guilds as your role requires.
What about this for a dwarf/myst build (for war)
Farms 8%
Banks 10%
TGs 12%
Barracks 10%
Gs 12%
Hosps 12%
Guilds 12%
Towers 10%
WT's 14%
will this do or do dwarves still need some homes to have 100+ BE?
Homes aren't as useful for dwarf as for the others.
You get 30% BE as racial - means your strength lies in the %-based buildings.
Make the most of them.
The above build looks decent, and if it turns out to be bad for you, one of the wonders of being dwarf is that you can swap your build around whenever you feel like it.
I registered specially for this thread. lol
am a slightly-below-average/average player.
Reading talks about Dw/M, got me interested in trying it out.
If I wanted to attack a person twice b4 his armies get back (with fog) and still be a hybrid.
Would it be better to play Dw/M, since I can have less Guilds and Towers. I put the extra into Rax
Or just go Dw/Wa.
My strat OOP
10% farms
20% banks
15% TG
15% Rax
20% Guilds (might -5% after a while, and put into WT)
10% Tower
10% WT (to prevent early thieving)
Should I ever include Any % of Homes at any acre range?
if you want to attack more often by getting extra rax you might want to consider getting some hospitals.
Shadow if you can keep your armies out enough to make use of 15% rax and warrior then you should probably go Warrior, but if you do that you should probably invest in some hosps and definently need arms to start off with. With your build, you only need about 8% farms and you dont necessarily need WT if you get your tpa above 1.
Ditch the banks.
20% useless acres.